Uno de los lugares más visitados por los turistas es la Concatedral de La Valletta. Y lo es no sólo por la belleza arquitectónica del propio edificio sino también porque tras sus muros se exhibe una obra maestra de la que los malteses se muestran orgullosos: la Decapitación de San Juan, cuya autoría corresponde a uno de los artistas más importantes del siglo XVI, Caravaggio.
Este gran cuadro, el mayor de los suyos (361 x 520 com), se halla en el lugar apropiado si se tiene en cuenta que el templo está dedicado a San Giovanni dei Cavalieri porque, como se deduce del nombre, éste es el patrón de la Soberana Orden militar. Sin embargo, conviene aclarar que el San Juan representado en el lienzo no es el Apóstol sino el Bautista: aquel que bautizó a Jesús e increpó públicamente a Herodes y Salomé hasta que ella exigió su cabeza.
Caravaggio sitúa la escena en una amplia mazmorra dotándola de una composición clásica y un equilibrio poco habitual en sus obras. El típico ambiente tenebrista está aquí mucho más matizado pero, en cambio, no faltan sus habituales tipos populares para representar a los personajes: una chica joven, una anciana, un noble, el verdugo… A la derecha, dos testigos contemplan la escena desde una ventana, recurso que permite introducir al espectador en el cuadro.
Es un detalle que se une a otros para sublimar aún más la pintura; por ejemplo, el punto de atención que supone el brazo vertical del verdugo sobre la cabeza de su víctima, el manto rojo que tapa las pieles de San Juan o la sangre derramada del Bautista, en la que puede leerse f Michele, lo que constituye la única firma que hay del artista en un cuadro (se llamaba Michelangelo Meris de Caragavaggio; la f se interpreta como fecit).
Amantes del arte y turistas en general pueden disfrutar contemplando La decapitación de San Juan en el Oratorio, pagando una entrada de 6 euros (4,60 los mayores y 3,50 los estudiantes; los menores de 12 años, gratis); y más ahora, que luce especialmente tras haber sido sometida a dos años de restauración en Florencia (y de donde regresó con todos los honores a bordo de un buque de la Armada italiana).
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